Black Canyon National Park

 

The Black Canyon is composed of methamorphic rock formed during an uplift event about 60 million years ago and then eroded by the impressive Gunnison River cutting through the volcanic top layer. This deep, dark, and narrow canyon is often lauded by climbers as a hard-person’s destination, full of adventure beginning with a committing descent, some bushwacking, navigating large growths of poison ivy, and then having to scale some of the tallest cliffs in the state of Colorado. But after the stories have scared away the crowds what’s really left is a vast amount of spectacular rock climbing with breathtaking views.

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Intro to Multipitch

Despite the imposing appearance, there are actually several wonderful moderate routes in the Black. A popular offering is spending 3 days rock climbing and camping on the North Rim of the Black Canyon reviewing lead belaying, rappelling, trad gear, anchors, transitions, and multipitch efficiency techniques. Some favorite moderate routes include:

  • Casual Route (5.8, 8 pitches)

  • Maiden Voyage (5.9, 6 pitches) - may be linked with King Me (5.10, 3 pitches) for a more challenging but better exit

  • Lauren’s Arete (5.9, 8 pitches)

 
Rock-climbing-Black-Canyon-Scenic-Cruise

Advanced Routes

Looking to step up the game a bit and sample more challenging routes? Moving quickly through challenging terrain, efficient transitions belay after belay for a full day, this is the reason a certified Rock Guide with solid movement skills is so critical. Whether it’s a full day route or a technically difficult pitch, there are plenty of routes to match with your goals. Some favorites include:

  • Comic Relief (5.10, 6 pitches) - may be linked with Lightning Bolt Crack (5.11) for a short but powerful variation

  • Journey Home (5.10, 6 pitches)

  • Cloaked Interpretation (5.10+, 6 pitches)

  • Scenic Cruise (5.10+, 13 pitches)

  • Midsummer Night’s Dream (5.11-, 6 pitches)

  • Atlantis (5.11, 16 pitches)

Details

SEASONS

  • Spring: Longer days and typically good weather patterns

  • Autumn: Cool mornings and warmth in the daytime sun make it easy to chase sun or shade as necessary

 PRICE

  • 1 climber: $675/day

  • 2 climbers: $425/person/day

* Don’t get sticker shock, these prices include the guide gratuity.

Logistics

LODGING

If climbing on the North Rim, there is a conveniently located campground with picnic tables, fire pits, and running water in the National Park; however, there is no cell reception or other amenities. Delta, Colorado is a one hour drive from the North Rim and has several simple 2-3 star hotel options in addition to grocery stores and restaurants.

TRAVEL

Montrose Regional Airport or Grand Junction Regional Airport are the closest airports to both the North and South Rim of the Black Canyon. A rental or personal vehicle will be necessary to travel to this remote National Park, there are no reliable shuttle options.

Equipment List

CLOTHING

  • Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers wick moisture away from the body

  • Sports bra (for women)

  • Hiking socks: Mini crew size and lightweight to midweight warmth/cushion

  • Lightweight t-shirt: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away and keep you cooler and more comfortable during hot temps

  • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection

  • Wind jacket: Must have an integrated hood, stretch fabric is often more durable

  • Hard shell jacket: Lightweight protection for afternoon thunderstorms

  • Lightweight insulated jacket: Down is lighter and more compressible

  • Climbing pants: Lightweight and stretchy

CLIMBING GEAR

  • On-route pack: Approximately 18 liters

  • Approach shoes: Must have sticky rubber outsole for security while scrambling on the approach and/or descent

  • Rock climbing shoes: Comfortable for all day wear

  • Chalk bag w/ chalk

  • Belay gloves: Full fingered recommended

  • Crack gloves: Optional, manufactured tape gloves are more comfortable and provide base coverage for protection while hand jamming

  • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

  • Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops

  • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

  • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling. A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile

  • Prusik loop: Optional, 3ft of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup

  • 20 feet 6mm accessory cord: Optional, can be helpful for anchor building

  • 2-3 Locking carabiners Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

  • 1-2 Non locking carabiners

  • Knife: Optional, should clip to carabiner in locked position

  • Athletic tape: avoid generic pharmacy brands as they are not as durable or sticky

ACCESSORIES

  • Sunglasses: Dimmable recommended, CAT 3 lenses w/ athletic fit

  • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick

  • First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications

  • Fully charged phone

  • Headlamp with fully charged batteries

  • 2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it

  • High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwich is a great midday pick-me-up)