North Cascades Alpine Climbing
Mountaineering
Kushan (Mt. Baker) means The Shooting Place in the Nooksack language, refering to the abundance of hunting opportunities at the foot of the mountain. At 10,781 ft it is the 3rd tallest mountain in Washington, the 2nd most glaciated volcano in the Cascade Range and holds the world record for the most snowfall in a single season. Routes such as the Coleman-Deming and Easton Glacier are a great introduction to general mountaineering offering climbers exposure to crevasse navigation and snow climbing up to 35 degrees. With convenient access to the toe of the glacier, many climbers choose to add a day or more to their climb to include instruction on mountaineering skill development. Other favorite routes for mountaineering include:
East Ridge on Eldorado Peak
Sulphide Glacier on Mt. Shuksan
Alpine Rock
Exposed rocky arêtes and towers jut out of the glacier below, beckoning climbers looking for a more technical adventure. Full days of rock climbing and traversing these incredible classic alpine ridges is what beckons alpine climbers from around the world to the North Cascades. Routes of all difficulty levels offer adventures for any level alpinist, many experience their first bivy on route and open their eyes to a new style of climbing. Some favorite routes include:
North Ridge of Forbidden Peak
West Arête of Eldorado Peak
Northeast Ridge of Mount Triumph
Technical Snow/Ice
Steep snow, extensive crevasse navigation, and big days in the mountains defines technical alpine snow and ice climbing in the North Cascades. Many routes in the North Cascades combine steep snow and glacier travel with alpine rock climbing, the best of both worlds, so your climb is a full-value alpine experience. Some favorite routes include:
North Ridge on Mt. Baker
North Face on Mt. Shuksan
SEASON
Summer: Warm temperatures and typically dry weather patterns
PRICE
1 climber: $750/day
2 climbers: $500/person/day
3 climbers: $425/person/day
LODGING
Meeting location varies based on objective, the following are a list of hotel suggestions depending on objective location:
Three Rivers Inn: Affordable and basic accommodations in Sedro Wooley, a 45 minute drive from the Marblemount Ranger Station
The town of Burlington has multiple hotel options conveniently adjacent to the I-5 and a 1 hour drive from Marblemount
Bellingham is the closest hub for climbs on Mt. Shuksan or Koma Kulshan (Mt. Baker) and has multiple hotel options
TRAVEL
Seattle-Tacoma International Airport is the closest major airport. A rental vehicle is necessary to travel to the remote trailheads in the North Cascades.
CLOTHING
Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers wick moisture away from the body
Sports bra (for women)
Hiking socks: Crew size with midweight warmth/cushion
Sun hat
Lightweight t-shirt: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away. A sun hoody is a great option
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection
Wind jacket: Must have an integrated hood. A non-insulated softshell jacket is an acceptable substitute
Hard shell jacket: Lightweight protection for afternoon thunderstorms
Midweight insulated jacket: Down is lighter and more compressible, should have 150 grams of 700+ fill
Softshell pants: Lightweight with Durable Water Resistance (DWR)
Shorts: Optional, for warmer temps on the approach
CLIMBING GEAR
Climbing backpack: Approximately 45 liters
Approach shoes: Optional, trail running sneakers or sticky rubber approach shoes make the approach more comfortable
Crampons: 12-point steel general mountaineering crampons
Trekking pole: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient
Rock climbing shoes: Route dependent, should be comfortable for all day wear
Chalk bag w/ chalk: Route dependent
Belay gloves: Full fingered recommended
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling. A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile
Prusik loop: Optional, 3ft of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup
20 feet 6mm accessory cord: Optional, can be helpful for anchor building
2-3 Locking carabiners Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
1-2 Non locking carabiners
Knife: Optional, should clip to carabiner in locked position
CAMPING (For overnight objectives only)
Tent: Lightweight 3-season, a single wall is recommended during dry weather
Bivy sack: Optional, for up-and-over routes where weight needs to be kept at a minimum
Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3, minimum
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Overnight meals: freeze dried meals are light and simple but are difficult to digest. Guide’s Choice - couscous with cheese, meat, and pesto powder
ACCESSORIES
Sunglasses: Dimmable recommended, CAT 4 lenses with side shields
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Pee funnel (for women)
Fully charged phone
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
CLOTHING
Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers will wick moisture away from the body
Sports bra (for women)
Midweight socks: Mini-crew or crew length hiking socks for the approach
Heavyweight socks: Over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth
Sun hat
Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet
Neck gaiter
Trekking gloves: Optional, lightweight fleece for around camp warmth/comfort
Softshell climbing gloves: 2 pairs recommended, one lightweight and one midweight (should be waterproof)
Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier
Midweight top baselayer
Midweight bottom baselayer: For colder summit days and additional warmth sleeping
Shorts: Optional, for the approach on warmer days
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection. You may choose to substitute this layer for an active insulation jacket during colder temperatures
Softshell jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, must have a helmet compatible hood
Hardshell jacket
Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep
Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips
Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have 150 grams of 700+ fill insulation
CLIMBING GEAR
Climbing backpack: Approximately 45 liters
Trekking pole with snow basket: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient
Approach shoes: Comfortable trail running/hiking sneakers
Mountaineering boots: Must be crampon compatible with a front and rear welt and fully rigid shank
Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions. Either technical mountaineering horizontal frontpoints or ice climbing vertical frontpoints are acceptable
Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option. Some packs have an external crampon pouch which replaces this item
Technical mountaineering ice axe: A slightly curved shaft with sliding pommel and adze
Second ice tool: A hammer attachment makes for a more versatile combination
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling: A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile
Prusik loop: 3 feet of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup
20 feet 6mm accessory cord
3-4 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing
Ice clipper: One should be sufficient for racking ice screws on route
Knife: Optional, should clip to carabiner in locked position
CAMPING
Tent: Lightweight 3-season, a single wall is recommended during dry weather
Bivy sack: Optional, for up-and-over routes where weight needs to be kept at a minimum
Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3 minimum
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Overnight meals: freeze dried meals are light and simple but are difficult to digest. Guide’s Choice - couscous with cheese, meat, and pesto powder
ACCESSORIES
Sunglasses: CAT 4 lenses with side shields
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Pee funnel (for women)
Hand warmers: Optional
Fully charged phone
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
CLOTHING
Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers will wick moisture away from the body
Sports bra (for women)
Midweight socks: Mini-crew or crew length hiking socks for the approach
Heavyweight socks: Over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth
Sun hat
Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet
Neck gaiter
Trekking gloves: Optional, lightweight fleece for around camp warmth/comfort
Softshell climbing gloves: 2 pairs recommended, one lightweight and one midweight (should be waterproof)
Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier
Midweight top baselayer
Midweight bottom baselayer: For colder summit days and additional warmth sleeping
Shorts: Optional, for the approach on warmer days
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection. You may choose to substitute this layer for an active insulation jacket during colder temperatures
Softshell jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, must have a helmet compatible hood
Hardshell jacket
Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep
Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips
Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have 150 grams of 700+ fill insulation
CLIMBING GEAR
Climbing backpack: Approximately 45 liters
Trekking pole with snow basket: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient
Approach shoes: Comfortable trail running/hiking sneakers
Mountaineering boots: Must be at least partially crampon compatible with a rear welt and 3/4 rigid shank
Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions, should be 12-point with horizontal frontpoints
Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option. Some packs have an external crampon pouch which replaces this item
General mountaineering ice axe: A slightly curved shaft is more versatile, should have an adze
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling: A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile
Prusik loop: 3 feet of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup
20 feet 6mm accessory cord
3-4 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing
Knife: Optional, should clip to carabiner in locked position
CAMPING
Tent: Lightweight 3-season, a single wall is recommended during dry weather
Sleeping bag: 20 degrees Fahrenheit recommended with a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: Inflatable pads are lighter, warmer, and more packable. Should have an R-value of 3 minimum
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: Typically, one bag is sufficient for two loads, plan accordingly
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Overnight meals: freeze dried meals are light and simple but are difficult to digest. Guide’s Choice - couscous with cheese, meat, and pesto powder
ACCESSORIES
Sunglasses: CAT 4 lenses with side shields
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Pee funnel (for women)
Hand warmers: Optional
Fully charged phone
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
External battery pack: Optional, bring charging cables
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)