Moab, Utah Rock Climbing

A desert oasis set amongst towering red cliffs, this town serves as a basecamp for adventure. Surrounded by world class rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, rafting, and exploring both natural and cultural history, Moab is the complete package for an adventurer. It’s no wonder that climber’s make Moab and the surrounding backcountry their choice for an annual pilgrimage, you too should enjoy the incredible rock climbing this dramatic desert landscape has to offer.

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Desert Towers

These striking sandstone towers rise from the barren desert landscape beckoning climbers in search of adventure. Many of these multipitch routes demand solid crack climbing technique, so it’s common to combine several days of instruction on the crags around Moab before summiting a desert tower. Take your pick from one of the stacked classics located in Castle Valley:

  • Castlelton Tower - North Chimney (5.9), Kor-Ingalls (5.9+), or the test piece North Face (5.11-)

  • Rectory - Fine Jade (5.11-)

  • Priest - Honeymoon Chimney (5.11-)

There are also fantastic entry level routes for those looking for a sample without the high level of movement skills, such as:

  • Ancient Art (5.8)

  • Terma (5.9)

 
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Crack Climbing Mecca

The rock climbing around Moab isn’t just for expert level climbers or adrenaline junkies, there’s also a lifetime of easy access single pitch climbing to be had. Surrounded by a plethora of towering red cliffs, spires rising from the sand, and the Colorado River cutting through the middle of it all the rock climbing options around Moab are endless. Whether you’re looking to focus on customized crack climbing instruction at one of the local cliffs, hone your trad leader skills, or just enjoy a casual day of fantastic rock climbing, Splitter Alpine Adventures will use local knowledge to select the best venue for your specific goals.

Details

SEASONS

  • Winter: Daytime temps during the winter can be great, but nights are still cold and storms are possible. Ideal for last minute trips to ensure good weather conditions

  • Spring: The desert is coming alive and temps are comfortable, chase the shade or sun depending on current conditions

  • Autumn: Temps are comfortable, chase the shade or sun depending on current conditions

PRICE

  • 1 climber: $625/day

  • 2 climbers: $400/person/day

  • 3 climbers: $350/person/day

  • 4 climbers: $300/person/day

* Multipitch objectives can only be guided at a 2:1 climber to guide ratio, so an additional guide would be required for larger groups.

Logistics

LODGING

Moab has multiple hotel and Airbnb options in addition to several Bureau of Land Management campgrounds for only $20/night on a first-come-first-served basis.

TRAVEL

Grand Junction Regional Airport is the closest reliable airport, a 1 hour 45 minute drive from Moab. Another option for more affordable flights is Salt Lake City International Airport, a 4 hour drive from Moab.

Equipment List

CLOTHING

  • Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers wick moisture away from the body

  • Hiking socks: Mini crew size and lightweight to midweight warmth/cushion

  • Sun hat

  • Lightweight t-shirt: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away and keep you cooler and more comfortable during hot temps

  • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection

  • Wind jacket: Must have an integrated hood, stretch fabric is often more durable

  • Lightweight insulated jacket: Down is lighter and more compressible

  • Climbing pants: Lightweight and stretchy

  • Shorts: Optional, for warmer temps

CLIMBING GEAR

  • Climbing backpack: Approximately 30+ liters

  • On-route pack: Approximately 15 liters, optional for multipitch routes. It is also possible to carry a 25-ish liter pack to the base of the route and then also use it on the route instead of the two pack system

  • Approach shoes: Must have sticky rubber outsole for security while scrambling on the approach and/or descent

  • Rock climbing shoes: Comfortable for all day wear. Flat lasted shoes with wider toe box are more comfortable and slippers (if not, flat laces are preferred over round laces) are more durable for toe jamming

  • Chalk bag w/ chalk

  • Belay gloves: Full fingered recommended

  • Crack gloves: Optional, manufactured tape gloves are more comfortable and provide great base coverage for the best protection while hand jamming

  • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

  • Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops

  • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

  • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling. A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile

  • Prusik loop: Optional, 3ft of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup

  • 20 feet 6mm accessory cord: Optional, can be helpful for anchor building

  • 2-3 Locking carabiners Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

  • 1-2 Non locking carabiners

  • Knife: Optional, should clip to carabiner in locked position

  • Athletic tape: avoid generic pharmacy brands as they are not as durable or sticky

ACCESSORIES

  • Sunglasses: Dimmable recommended, CAT 3 lenses w/ athletic fit

  • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick

  • First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications

  • Fully charged phone

  • Headlamp with fully charged batteries

  • 2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it

  • High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)