Ouray Ice Climbing
Located in the heart of the San Juan mountains in southwest Colorado, this old mining town is now home to some of the best ice climbing in the country. The Ouray Ice Park extends through a 1 mile span of the Uncompahgre Gorge with a human-made gravity fed sprinkler system that creates about 150 independent ice climbs. With uniquely easy access to ice climbing, Ouray is the perfect destination for any ability ice climber looking to learn the foundational skills or hone their movement techniques for steeper routes. Learn to be a self sufficient ice climber with instruction in top rope anchor construction, belaying, and introductory through advanced level ice and mixed climbing movement.
Intro to Multipitch Ice
Ready to take your movement skills into the backcountry? Frozen waterfalls in the Ouray, Silverton, and Telluride backcountry offer easy access to developing the confidence and technical methods necessary to ascend backcountry multipitch ice climbing objectives. With the customized instruction of a local and highly experienced ice climbing guide, you’ll learn how to “read the ice”, identify hazards, belay techniques, rope management, and efficient transitions. Some favorite moderate routes include:
Second Gully (WI3+, 6 pitches)
Choppo’s Chimney (WI4, 1 pitch)
Green Mountain Falls (WI3+, 4 pitches)
Whorehouse Hoses (WI4, 4 pitches)
Advanced Backcountry Ice
Steep ice, long pitches, and big days in the mountains, that’s what it’s all about. These ephemeral frozen waterfalls are the siren call for ice climbers and the mountains around Ouray, Telluride, and Silverton offer plenty of aesthetic routes for those climbers wanting to step up the difficulty. Learn how to ice climb efficiently on challenging WI5 routes and prepare for technical alpine climbing in Alaska and the Greater Ranges. You may also choose to focus on mixed climbing technique and combine the rock and ice mediums as is commonly encountered in the alpine environment. Some favorite advanced routes include:
Dukes of Hazzard (WI5/M6, 4 pitches)
The Calling (WI4/M4, 5 pitches)
Bridalveil Falls (WI5+, 3 pitches)
Talisman (WI5/M6, 3 pitches)
SEASON
Winter: Early season conditions typically form reliable backcountry ice by mid November and allow access to remote higher elevation areas and less crowding. The Ouray Ice Park typically opens by December 25 and remains open into the start of March.
PRICE
1 climber: $625/day
2 climbers: $400/person/day
3 climbers: $350/person/day
4 climbers: $300/person/day
* An additional $50/person/day fee may be applied for significantly larger/complex route linkups.
LODGING
Chipeta Lodge: Located in the neighboring town of Ridgway, this highly recommended hotel has great nearby dining options, receives more sunshine than Ouray, and is closer to Telluride for a ski/rest day.
The town of Ouray has multiple convenient hotel options, for those on a budget check out the cabins or hotel at Riverside Inn.
TRAVEL
Montrose Regional Airport is the closest airport and has the benefit of an easy drive into Ouray during a winter storm. A rental car is not necessary though it is beneficial for exploring the area during a rest day, make sure it’s a 4WD or AWD vehicle that can handle the snow. Tellurides offers a convenient and affordable shuttle option.
CLOTHING
Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers will wick moisture away from the body
Heavyweight socks: Over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth
Sun hat
Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet
Neck gaiter
Mixed climbing gloves: Highly dexterous with minimal insulation, these are great for warmer days, lead climbing, or mixed climbing
Softshell climbing gloves: Waterproof with high dexterity. 2 pairs recommended, one midweight and one heavyweight. Guide’s Pick - Showa 282 Temres (size up one from normal)
Midweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away. Thumb loops are recommended to keep your wrists from being exposed and your hands warmer
Heavyweight bottom baselayer
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection
Active insulation jacket: Ideal balance of breathability and warmth for winter aerobic activity
Midweight vest: Optional, adds warmth to your core without restricting movement
Softshell jacket: Midweight with a helmet compatible hood. Should have Durable Water Resistance (DWR) coating
Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep. Avoid ski pants as they are often too baggy and likely to catch on your crampons
Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have at least 200 grams of 800 fill insulation
CLIMBING GEAR
Climbing backpack: Approximately 35 liters with ice tool attachments
On-route pack: Approximately 15 liters, optional for multipitch routes. It is also possible to carry a 25-ish liter pack to the base of the route and then also use it on the route instead of the two-pack system
Trekking pole with snow basket: 3-section collapsible, one pole should be sufficient
Mountaineering boots: Must be fully crampon compatible with fully rigid shank
Vertical frontpoint crampons: Dualpoints are better for continuous ice but monopoints are lighter and are many guides’ preference
Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option
Technical ice tools: Remove the adze attachment
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Recommended ice clipper compatibility
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling: A Personal Anchor System (PAS) can be used instead, though is less versatile
Prusik loop: Optional, 3 feet of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup
20 feet 6mm accessory cord: Optional, can be helpful for anchor building
2-3 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
1-2 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing
2 Ice Clippers
Ice tool tether: Optional, should be umbilical style
22cm Ice Screw: Optional, for building v-thread anchors on rappel
V-thread tool: Guide’s pick - Jsnare
Knife: Optional, should clip to carabiner in locked position
SNOW TRAVEL
Snowshoes or approach skis: Optional, may be helpful after a large snow event
Avalanche beacon: Provided by Splitter Alpine Adventures as necessary
Probe: 2 meters, carbon fiber is ideal. Provided by Splitter Alpine Adventures as necessary
Shovel: Lightweight and compact. Provided by Splitter Alpine Adventures as necessary
ACCESSORIES
Sunglasses: Dimmable recommended, CAT 3 lenses w/ athletic fit
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick
First aid kit: Small, should include any personal medications
Hand warmers: Optional
Fully charged phone
Headlamp with fully charged batteries
2 liters of water: A soft water bottle is more comfortable in a pack but care needs to be taken to not puncture it. Hydration hoses are not acceptable because they freeze. A 1 liter thermos with your favorite hot drink is recommended
High energy lunch and snacks: A healthy mix of fats, sugar, and protein for a full day of the on-the-go (leftover pizza or sandwiches are a great midday pick-me-up)
The Ouray Ice Park is a community driven non-profit organization that is committed to remaining free and open to the public but maintaining the infrastructure has significant associated costs. Climbers are asked to support this resource through donations and membership. As a member, climbers are allowed to access the Ouray Ice Park 30 minutes prior to the public opening time, which is a great opportunity to get established before the crowds settle in. Splitter Alpine Adventures has been an Ice Park member every year since first climbing in Ouray and strongly encourages all guests to join as members.