Alaska Range Alpine Climbing

The Alaska Range holds a special place in my heart; flying into a remote mountain range and being dropped off on the glacier below towering monsters of granite and ice is always awe inspiring. Every trip to the Range is an extensively customized package based on your available timeframe and specific goals, working directly with you throughout the logistical process.

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Rock Climbing

Ascend golden granite cracks while the glacier floor drops away below you. The long Alaska summer days make for great rock climbing expeditions in Denali National Park, all from the comfort of a well-stocked basecamp. The Ruth Gorge has a rich history of being a siren call for world-class alpinists, test your mettle on these mega classic alpine rock climbs. Little Switzerland also offers climbers a moderate climbing option with more stable weathers since it’s located on the front side of the Range. Whether you’re interested in 8-pitch 5.8 routes to an exposed summit or challenging 20-pitch 5.11 routes, there’s a route for every climber.

 
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Mountaineering

Complex glaciers, exposed ridgelines, and big days in even bigger mountains is what defines the mountaineering and alpine climbing in Denali National Park. Climbing in the Alaska Range should be on every climber’s life goals if you too want to step up your alpine climbing experience and explore a remote and rugged mountain range. Mountaineering expeditions are often customized to include extensive instruction in glacier travel, crevasse rescue, navigation, snow, rock, and ice climbing techniques in an immersive environment.

 
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Ice and Mixed Climbing

Steep couloirs, runnels of ice, scratching up rock steps in crampons and ice tools; technical alpine climbing during a big mountain expedition involves digging deep and employing a large mix of techniques. A customized itinerary based on your strengths and interests combined with a well-rounded Alaska Range knowledge provides the highest levels of success when climbing with Splitter Alpine Adventures. Some favorite ice and mixed routes include:

  • Ham & Eggs (AI4, 5.9, steep snow, V)

  • Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 (5.8, steep snow, V)

  • West Face Couloir of Mt. Huntington(AI4+, M4, steep snow, V)

Details

SEASON

  • Spring: Early spring yields the most stable conditions for technical ice and mixed objectives. Later in the spring is best for mountaineering objectives or higher elevation alpine ice routes

  • Summer: Long daylight hours and warm temps are best for rock climbing after the snow has melted from the faces

PRICE

Varies based on itinerary, contact Splitter Alpine Adventures to discuss price options and details. 

Logistics

LODGING

Anchorage has multiple hotel options if you’re planning on additional travel before or after the climb. In Talkeetna, Splitter Alpine Adventures provides two nights lodging, any additional nights necessary due to flight delay is not included.

TRAVEL

Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport offers easy transportation to Alaska from most major airports in the contiguous US. Flights into the mountains is from the town of Talkeetna, a 2 hour drive from Anchorage (Splitter Alpine Adventures provides transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna).

Ice and Mixed Equipment List

CLOTHING

  • Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers will wick moisture away from the body

  • Sports bra (for women)

  • Heavyweight socks: 3-4 pairs recommended, over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth

  • Insulated booties

  • Sun hat

  • Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet

  • Neck gaiter

  • Balaclava: Ninja style face masks can add protection during windy summit days

  • Trekking gloves: Optional, lightweight fleece for around camp warmth/comfort

  • Softshell climbing gloves: 3 pairs recommended, one lightweight, one midweight, and one heavyweight. All models should be waterproof with high levels of dexterity

  • Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier. An extra baselayer is nice for extended expeditions

  • Midweight top baselayer

  • Bottom baselayer: Two recommended, one lightweight and one heavyweight for layering options on summit day as well as additional warmth sleeping

  • Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection. You may choose to substitute this layer for an active insulation jacket during colder temperatures

  • Midweight vest: Breathable and fits under jacket without restricting movement

  • Active insulation jacket: Breathable with stretch fabric for cold weather climbing

  • Waterproof jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, must have a helmet compatible hood

  • Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep and DWR

  • Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips

  • Puffy pants: Synthetic insulated pants with full side zips

  • Lightweight insulated jacket: For shorter routes and extra insulation options. If synthetic should have 60g/m2 of insulation, if down should have 100g of 700+ fill insulation.

  • Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have at least 275 grams of 800+ fill insulation

CLIMBING GEAR

  • Approach skis: Skis w/ skins and Silvretta bindings can attach to mountaineering boots and are more efficient and offer better flotation. This specialty item can be rented in Anchorage

  • Avalanche transceiver

  • Avalanche shovel: Small and lightweight

  • Avalanche probe: 2 meters in length is sufficient, carbon fiber is lightest

  • Climbing backpack: Approximately 35-40 liters for on route missions

  • Expedition backpack: Approximately 70 liters for moving camps across the glacier, itinerary dependent

  • Trekking poles with snow basket: 3-section collapsible, one pair

  • Mountaineering boots: Double boots are required

  • Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions. Ice climbing vertical frontpoints are recommended

  • Extra pair of frontpoints

  • Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option

  • Ice tools: One pair of technical tools with sliding mid pommel and spike on bottom recommended. One with adze and one with hammer recommended

  • Extra ice tool pick

  • Ice tool leash: Elastic umbilical style is recommended

  • Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified

  • Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops

  • Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner

  • 48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling

  • Adjustable personal anchor: Optional, chain style PAS or Petzl Dual Connect Adjust can be helpful for multiple rappels

  • Prusik loop: 3 feet of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup

  • 20 feet 6mm accessory cord

  • 6 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner

  • 4 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing

  • V-thread tool and long ice screw: A single 21cm screw with a v-thread grabbing tool

  • Ice clippers: Two clippers, for racking ice screws on route

  • Knife: Optional, should clip to carabiner in locked position

CAMPING

  • Expedition duffel bag: Approximately 140 liters, long and narrow is better than boxy

  • Sleeping bag: It is possible to bring two sleeping bags for optimum comfort, a -20 degrees Fahrenheit bag for basecamp and 10 degrees Fahrenheit bag for on route bivies. Alternatively a 0 degree Farhenheit bag may accomplish both goals. Must have a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag

  • Sleeping pad: A combination of one full length inflatable pad and one foam pad provides the most warmth on the glacier

  • Personal toiletries

  • WAG bags: For on route only

  • Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes

  • Bowl, spork, and mug

  • Contractor bags: 2 unscented heavy duty trash bags

ACCESSORIES

  • Sunglasses: CAT 4 lenses with side shields

  • Nose guard: Optional, looks dorky but a sunburn is worse

  • Goggles: Adjustable lenses are ideal

  • Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick: Bring extra for an extended expedition

  • First aid kit: Small, should include a blister kit and any personal medications

  • Pee funnel (for women)

  • Hand warmers

  • Solar charger with external battery bank: Bring all necessary charging cables for your electronics

  • Smartphone with plug-in headphones: Download music and podcasts for relaxing around camp. A leash system for your phone is highly recommended

  • Book

  • Headlamp with fully charged batteries: Keep it small but bright

  • 2 Nalgene style water bottles: These should be wide mouth, soft bottles should be avoided as they are more likely to puncture

  • Insulated water bottle koozies

  • 1 liter thermos: For around camp or if you prefer a hot drink on summit day

  • High energy lunch and snacks: For summit day(s), lunch will be provided around camp but you should bring your own food system for on-the-go energy. Be mindful of food that freezes solid

TRAVEL

  • Duffel bag: Approximately 50 liters for storing items in town

  • Travel clothing: Should be comfortable, 2 days worth. Bring sneakers/shoes for in town as well