Alaska Range Alpine Climbing
The Alaska Range holds a special place in my heart; flying into a remote mountain range and being dropped off on the glacier below towering monsters of granite and ice is always awe inspiring. Every trip to the Range is an extensively customized package based on your available timeframe and specific goals, working directly with you throughout the logistical process.
SEASON
Spring: Early spring yields the most stable conditions for technical ice and mixed objectives. Later in the spring is best for mountaineering objectives or higher elevation alpine ice routes
Summer: Long daylight hours and warm temps are best for rock climbing after the snow has melted from the faces
PRICE
Varies based on itinerary, contact Splitter Alpine Adventures to discuss price options and details.
LODGING
Anchorage has multiple hotel options if you’re planning on additional travel before or after the climb. In Talkeetna, Splitter Alpine Adventures provides two nights lodging, any additional nights necessary due to flight delay is not included.
TRAVEL
Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport offers easy transportation to Alaska from most major airports in the contiguous US. Flights into the mountains is from the town of Talkeetna, a 2 hour drive from Anchorage (Splitter Alpine Adventures provides transportation from Anchorage to Talkeetna).
CLOTHING
Underwear: Should be comfortable, synthetic fibers will wick moisture away from the body
Sports bra (for women)
Heavyweight socks: 3-4 pairs recommended, over-the-calf winter weight for superior warmth
Insulated booties
Sun hat
Warm hat: Should be thin enough to fit under your helmet
Neck gaiter
Balaclava: Ninja style face masks can add protection during windy summit days
Trekking gloves: Optional, lightweight fleece for around camp warmth/comfort
Softshell climbing gloves: 3 pairs recommended, one lightweight, one midweight, and one heavyweight. All models should be waterproof with high levels of dexterity
Lightweight top baselayer: Merino wool or synthetic fibers will wick sweat away, a sun hoody is particularly useful on the glacier. An extra baselayer is nice for extended expeditions
Midweight top baselayer
Bottom baselayer: Two recommended, one lightweight and one heavyweight for layering options on summit day as well as additional warmth sleeping
Midweight fleece jacket: An integrated hood adds warmth and weather protection. You may choose to substitute this layer for an active insulation jacket during colder temperatures
Midweight vest: Breathable and fits under jacket without restricting movement
Active insulation jacket: Breathable with stretch fabric for cold weather climbing
Waterproof jacket: Lightweight, should not be insulated, must have a helmet compatible hood
Softshell pants: Midweight with reinforced instep and DWR
Hardshell pants: Should have full side zips
Puffy pants: Synthetic insulated pants with full side zips
Lightweight insulated jacket: For shorter routes and extra insulation options. If synthetic should have 60g/m2 of insulation, if down should have 100g of 700+ fill insulation.
Insulated parka: Down is lighter/more compressible and a hydrophobic treated down will insulate even when wet. Should have at least 275 grams of 800+ fill insulation
CLIMBING GEAR
Approach skis: Skis w/ skins and Silvretta bindings can attach to mountaineering boots and are more efficient and offer better flotation. This specialty item can be rented in Anchorage
Avalanche transceiver
Avalanche shovel: Small and lightweight
Avalanche probe: 2 meters in length is sufficient, carbon fiber is lightest
Climbing backpack: Approximately 35-40 liters for on route missions
Expedition backpack: Approximately 70 liters for moving camps across the glacier, itinerary dependent
Trekking poles with snow basket: 3-section collapsible, one pair
Mountaineering boots: Double boots are required
Crampons: Steel is required for durability and security in firm conditions. Ice climbing vertical frontpoints are recommended
Extra pair of frontpoints
Crampon pouch: Reusing a USPS Tyvek mailing package is a cost effective option
Ice tools: One pair of technical tools with sliding mid pommel and spike on bottom recommended. One with adze and one with hammer recommended
Extra ice tool pick
Ice tool leash: Elastic umbilical style is recommended
Climbing helmet: Must be UIAA certified
Harness: Must have a belay loop and at least two gear loops
Tubular belay device with round bar stock locking carabiner
48 inch (120cm) sewn nylon sling
Adjustable personal anchor: Optional, chain style PAS or Petzl Dual Connect Adjust can be helpful for multiple rappels
Prusik loop: 3 feet of 6mm accessory cord tied into a prusik loop or a manufactured rappel backup
20 feet 6mm accessory cord
6 Locking carabiners: Lightweight, screwgate is easier to operate than a triple-action carabiner
4 Non locking carabiners: Wiregates are less prone to freezing
V-thread tool and long ice screw: A single 21cm screw with a v-thread grabbing tool
Ice clippers: Two clippers, for racking ice screws on route
Knife: Optional, should clip to carabiner in locked position
CAMPING
Expedition duffel bag: Approximately 140 liters, long and narrow is better than boxy
Sleeping bag: It is possible to bring two sleeping bags for optimum comfort, a -20 degrees Fahrenheit bag for basecamp and 10 degrees Fahrenheit bag for on route bivies. Alternatively a 0 degree Farhenheit bag may accomplish both goals. Must have a compression sack sized for your sleeping bag
Sleeping pad: A combination of one full length inflatable pad and one foam pad provides the most warmth on the glacier
Personal toiletries
WAG bags: For on route only
Toilet paper, hand sanitizer, and wet wipes
Bowl, spork, and mug
Contractor bags: 2 unscented heavy duty trash bags
ACCESSORIES
Sunglasses: CAT 4 lenses with side shields
Nose guard: Optional, looks dorky but a sunburn is worse
Goggles: Adjustable lenses are ideal
Small tube of sunscreen and SPF chap stick: Bring extra for an extended expedition
First aid kit: Small, should include a blister kit and any personal medications
Pee funnel (for women)
Hand warmers
Solar charger with external battery bank: Bring all necessary charging cables for your electronics
Smartphone with plug-in headphones: Download music and podcasts for relaxing around camp. A leash system for your phone is highly recommended
Book
Headlamp with fully charged batteries: Keep it small but bright
2 Nalgene style water bottles: These should be wide mouth, soft bottles should be avoided as they are more likely to puncture
Insulated water bottle koozies
1 liter thermos: For around camp or if you prefer a hot drink on summit day
High energy lunch and snacks: For summit day(s), lunch will be provided around camp but you should bring your own food system for on-the-go energy. Be mindful of food that freezes solid
TRAVEL
Duffel bag: Approximately 50 liters for storing items in town
Travel clothing: Should be comfortable, 2 days worth. Bring sneakers/shoes for in town as well