The Alpine Climbing Action Suit
Frigid nighttime temperatures, sunny glacier approaches, afternoon thunderstorms, abrasive rock chimneys and freedom of movement: your clothing system for alpine climbing needs to be able to withstand a wide spectrum of conditions and abuses. Your “action suit” may vary slightly based on the season/venue but there are plenty of consistencies and this article addresses the foundation of that clothing system.
Lower Body
Your boot selection will vary the most based on your objective, check out this article for more info: https://www.splitteralpine.com/blog/alpine-climbing-footwear.
Size your boots and socks to eliminate slippage, this will reduce calf fatigue. A thin liner sock is a popular option to prevent blisters but I find that a single sock per foot is a better option to achieve the right fit; I also typically size my sock one size down from the manufacturer recommendation for a snug fit. Pay attention to the thickness of your sock (and any aftermarket insole) and be wary of boots that become too tight and cause a loss of circulation. I always carry a spare of socks for multiday objectives or days that I expect to last more than 12 hours, changing socks during a break is laborious but foot care is so critical for prolonged performance.
Leg insulation: does the climbing objective require lots of start/stop climbing (technical pitches) or is there a lot of terrain that involve the team climbing together (steep snow)? When covering a lot of terrain quickly you may choose to use a light or midweight baselayer. For harder climbing that results in longer periods of pausing for the belay err on the side of a warmer baselayer bottom. These layers are too difficult to change on-the-move so choose wisely.
Softshell pants are an extremely popular option as they are more comfortable and have more stretch. However, they also compromise the same level of weather protection and are often much heavier. I primarily use softshell pants in cold subalpine environments like ice climbing or for comfort around camp during expeditions to Alaska. I also will opt for softshell pants for rock climbing objectives as they offer far more durability. But for alpine climbing in mixed/ice terrain where you can expect wind or wet snow, hardshell pants offer superior value and have been my go to. Full side zips make donning pants with crampons possible, but also add bulk and reduce freedom of movement. If you plan on wearing these as your primary pant consider finding a pant that fits well enough to not limit your freedom of movement.
Upper Body
For summer approaches in areas like the Bugaboos or North Cascades I opt for a wicking t-shirt, as they are light and comfortable on those hot days. On a sunny glacier, a loose fitting sun hoody will provide shade and allow a light breeze to cool you down.
A fleece midlayer should have a hood which can add significant warmth quickly. Avoid handwarmer pockets as they interfere with the harness and add bulk. I have several fleece jackets that I rotate between based on the climbing season: a lofted or grid knit fiber fleece provides the highest warmth to weight ratio with exceptional breathability. A traditional fleece jacket with a smooth face unfortunately loose a significant amount of their warmth value as they age and pill.
An active insulation jacket should be on every alpine climbers to buy list. With exceptional breathability and a high warmth to weight ratio, this jacket can serve as an outerlayer or midlayer. For milder conditions or higher output activities, consider exchanging this piece for an active insulation vest instead, it adds warmth without the bulk.
Shell jacket: during short trips focusing on rock climbing with a good weather forecast it may be possible to use a lightweight wind jacket, but for longer trips or mixed/snow/ice routes a hardshell jacket will offer superior warmth and protection from the elements. I go back and forth with pullover options, they are lighter and fit more comfortably under a harness but are more challenging to add/remove on-the-go. Avoid excessively heavy 3 layer hardshell jackets and instead opt for a simple hardshell with minimal features and bring repair tape for the inevitable scuffs/tears that will occur on a big route (guide tip - Siga Rissan tape is used in construction and is by far the best for repairing GoreTex, backpacks, and even sleeping pads). What about a softshell? Unfortunately this popular layer is heavy and offers little value during inclement weather so only opt for this layer during good weather windows or solidly below freezing temps.
Your insulating layer should provide comprehensive weather protection and enough warmth to survive the expected temperatures if caught out without a shelter. This is a big ask, but remember it’s combined with all your other layers. For warmer weather alpine climbing, strongly consider sythethic insulation as it will do a better job of keeping you warm during wet storms. You may even opt for two lightweight puffy layers (size them appropriately to be layered) as heat will be trapped between layers and this offers versatility for climbing in one puffy and then layering the other over top during infrequent stops. For colder weather or start/stop alpinism a big puffy jacket will provide superior warmth, I prefer a puffy with ~250 grams of 800+ down insulation. This exceptionally warm layer will keep your body warm and ready to fire again once you’re back on belay and can be counted towards the necessary warmth factor of your sleep system.
I often opt for lighter more dexterous gloves as it keeps me from overgripping my tools and cutting off circulation, therefore keeping my hands warm. But for more moderate climbing, frigid temps, and belaying one pair of exceptionally warm gloves can be the difference between frostbite and comfort. For harder pitches of climbing a pair of thin drytooling gloves will provide the most amount of dexterity, but avoid using these type of gloves for rope handling or snow climbing as they are not durable or waterproof enough for these tasks. For the bulk of my ice climbing, snow climbing, and even moderate mixed climbing I find the Showa TemRes 282-02 (this newer model has an integrated wrist gaiter to keep snow out) to be my go-to. There is no extra membrane like most other snow/winter climbing gloves so even though the fit is far from precise there is no movement between layers within the glove. Plan on your gloves getting wet: bring 2 pairs of midweight gloves (like the Showa), one pair of heavyweight gloves for those extremely cold temps, and for routes with challenging mixed climbing one pair of drytooling gloves.
A silkweight balaclava is a great option for warmth, sun protection and convenience. You may also choose to use a Buff instead as it is more versatile and easier to add/remove but also will need readjusting throughout the day. I prefer the Buff as I can pull it up over my nose and cheeks for full sun coverage.
As someone with a couple of growing bald spots you’ll be hard pressed to find me without a hat on. But in the alpine where you’re wearing a helmet the entire time, I forego the brimmed hat underneath as it reduces my field of vision too much. For long approaches I may choose a lightweight endurance style hat with a short brim or even just a Buff (this is already in my kit) to cover my forehead and ears. I don’t typically wear warm hats and instead use the hoods on my upper body layers to regulate warmth on my head. For exceptionally cold temperatures though I do choose to add a light fleece hat for that extra level of warmth/protection.
Bonus Thoughts - pockets and hoods, can there be too many?
Alpine climbing in cold weather often requires conscious effort to keep things from freezing, including yourself. Layers with a hood are an easy and quick way to add warmth but be wary of too many hoods as they can obscure your field of vision and your ability to hear your partner. I choose which layers I actually want a hood for and the others I opt to go hoodless, saving weight and bulk. For me, these hooded layers typically are: fleece layer, the hood sits tightly around the head and can be stretched over the helmet in a pinch or under the helmet for better warmth/weather protection. Hardshell jacket, a hood is critical for when the weather gets nasty. Puffy jacket, a hood in this layer adds substantial warmth and is not often worn while climbing. If using the double lightweight puff layering option, consider the larger sized one with a hood and the smaller one (to be worn while climbing) sans hood.
Pockets are used to keep important items accessible for on-the-go efficiency, such as snacks, phone, and sunscreen. Chest pockets on internal layers are especially nice as they keep items warm, so bars are edible and your phone stays charged. Handwarmer pockets on the other hand often interfere with your harness, climbing specific layers shouldn’t have these.