Wasatch Range Alpine Climbing
With ease of access to the mountains and generally stable weather patterns, Salt Lake City is a great venue for alpine climbing through all seasons. During the summer months, alpine climbing is on long and exposed 4th and easy 5th class rock ridges and slabs or exposed technical and challenging routes high above the valley floor. Whether you're looking for an introduction to alpine climbing or want to challenge yourself with a technical and classic ascent, we are excited to explore the Wasatch high country with you! Splitter Alpine Adventures guides alpine routes in Utah year-round.
Mt. Superior (11,132 ft/3,393 m) looms above Snowbird Resort dramatically rising from the Little Cottonwood Canyon road. This peak entices hikers, skiers, and climbers alike due to it’s prominence, location, and aesthetic lines. The South Ridge makes a great full-day of alpine climbing during the summer or winter months. In the summer, this alpine rock climb is mostly exposed 4th class ridge traversing with sections of moderate 5th class terrain. During hotter days, this higher altitude climb tends to be cooler temps than the valley, with beautiful summit views in 360 degrees. During the winter months, the climb is mixed with snow and rock with possible steps of lower-angle ice. The colder temps and ice hold together rocky gendarmes standing guard like frozen gargoyles on the ridgeline. To navigate the technical sections of this route climbers travel together, simul-climbing through the majority with short sections of fixed belays for added security. Due to the high level of exposure and committing nature of the S. Ridge, climbers must be in good aerobic condition and have pre-requisite alpine climbing experience for a winter ascent. This is a great, challenging alpine climb with a full day of big exposure and a very rewarding summit!
The West Ridge of Toledo Peak (10,350 ft/3154 m) is a fantastic route for climbers looking for more of an introduction to winter alpine climbing. This climb has steeper and more sustained technical climbing than the South Ridge of Superior, but has less of a commitment factor, allowing for climbers to spend more time learning the basics of alpine climbing techniques. The West Ridge offers climbers 5+ short pitches of steeper snow, rock, and ice steps. Combined with an easy approach and descent, amazing views, and great alpine climbing, the West Ridge should be a goal for every budding alpinist.
Big Cottonwood Canyon is also host to many moderate alpine rock routes that make a great adventure in either summer or winter months. Sundial peak is a prominent mountain towering above the scenic Lake Blanche. Eleventh Hour (5.8) is a popular moderate alpine rock climb during the summer months. The north-facing wall keeps temperatures cooler during the hotter days of summer. The climbing is adventurous and at a moderate difficulty level, making this a great introduction to alpine rock climbing in the Wasatch Range. The route finishes on the ridge of Sundial Peak with fantastic views of the backside of Mt. Superior and Monte Cristo as well as the surrounding Big Cottonwood Canyon.
The West Slabs on Mt. Olympus (9,026 ft/2751 m) is the soaring face of granite high above Salt Lake City. This aesthetic line ascends 1,800' of lower angle featured face climbing at a moderate difficulty (5.5). If you're looking for an introduction to alpine rock climbing, this 10-pitch route is an area classic during the summer and fall, with unforgettable views, wild exposure, and moderate technical challenge. During the winter, this climb is a challenging ascent with a snow and ice covered face, offering climbers a whole new world of adventure.
DATES: Year round
INCLUDES: Professional guide/instructor, harness, helmet, belay device w/ locking carabiner, group climbing equipment (rope, protection, and anchor material), and group camping equipment for overnight climbs (tents, stoves, etc.)
DOES NOT INCLUDE: Transportation, meals, lodging, ice axe & crampons (winter only), mountaineering boots or climbing shoes (season/route dependent), personal clothing, travel insurance, and guide gratuity
Splitter Alpine Adventures provides instruction on the Uinta-Wasatch-Cache National Forest under a Special Use Permit issued to Utah Mountain Adventures.